Alpha
Hydroxy Acids
Alpha
hydroxy acids, or AHAs,
are commonly found in
different concentrations
in many products. The
most commonly used alpha
hydroxy acids are glycolic,
lactic, malic, citric
and tartaric acids.
These mild acids serve
to remove the outer
layer of dull skin and
leave skin with a rejuvenated
appearance.
Some
of these acids are derived
from fruit sources,
particularly citrus
fruits, apples and grapes.
Some of the alpha hydroxy
acids, such as glycolic
acid, are found in sugar
cane. Others, such as
lactic acid, are found
in milk.
Lactic
acidis also a naturally
occurring substance
in the skin and is produced
by our muscles when
we work out. Lactic
acid build up is in
fact what gives muscles
cramping when they are
over exerted. The most
common acids used in
skin care are lactic
acid and glycolic acid.
Those people who are
allergic to the more
commonly found glycolic
acids should do very
well with lactic acid
products because they
are a naturally occurring
substance in the skin.
All
of the alpha hydroxy
acids serve to exfoliate
the skin and leave your
skin with a better appearance.
They should not be used
too often at high concentrations
because they can leave
the skin quite dry.
At least one alpha hydroxy
acid product should
be part of everyone’s
regular skin care regimen,
and are most commonly
found in the toner products
in the skin care lines
sold on our web site.
If you are allergic
to the most commonly
found alpha hydroxy
acid, glycolic acid,
the lactic acid products
are available.
Collagenis
a naturally occurring
substance that can be
found in the skin. Collagen
from animal sources
are used for fillers
in the skin. Collagen
injections have been
used for many years
to treat scars and fine
wrinkling. The biggest
problem with collagen
is that it goes away
after several months
and needs to be repeated.
It is also rather expensive.
Many other substances
such as fibril and now
one’s own collagen can
be cultured and injected
into the skin. Skin
tests need to be done
for patients undergoing
treatment prior to their
first round of injections
since many people can
demonstrate allergies
to collagen.
Dermabrasioncan
take two forms. Dermabrasion
is an old technique
which is used to treat
both scars from acne
or trauma as well as
fine wrinkling. Its
use for treatment of
fine wrinkling has been
supplanted by most of
the lasers and topical
chemical agents. It
still has a place for
the treatment of scars,
however, since it is
an excellent tool for
rounding out depressed
or elevated scars. Dermabrasion
has similar effects
in increasing collagen
and elastin as the carbon
dioxide laser, erbium
laser and chemical peels.
It is less controlled
as the depth of penetration
is a function of how hard the surgeon pushes
on the dermabrader,
the length of time the
dermabrader is in any
one place, and the quality
of one’s skin. Most
doctors no longer use
dermabrasion on a regular
basis. The risks of
dermabrasion can be
depigmentation, infection,
scarring and persistent
redness.
Exfoliator
These
are any products used
to help speed the removal
of the top or dead layer
of skin cells. This
more rapidly allows
new layers to come to
the surface. They do
little to remove wrinkles,
and are commonly used
on the face. Examples
of exfoliators are alpha
hydroxy acids, and beta
hydroxy acids. Other
exfoliators are abrasive
sponges, or micro dermabrasion.
Some facial masks also
act as an exfoliator.
Moisturizers
Skin,
especially on the face,
has oil glands which
keep it moisturized.
As one gets older, and
in colder air, the skin
tends to get drier.
The solution for dry
skin is the use of moisturizers.
The type of moisturizer
one uses is dependent
upon one’s skin type.
The moisturizer used
is also varied depending
upon the season with
heavier, more effective
moisturizers used during
the winter. Lighter
moisturizers are typically
lotions and contain
a higher water content.
They evaporate more
readily than the heavier
moisturizers which contain
more petroleum based
products and less water.
Most moisturizers contain
a balance of petroleum
based products with
water, some additional
ingredients such as
humectants help deliver
moisture from below
the skin to where it
is needed. An example
of a commonly used humectant
is glycerin.
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