Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids, or
AHAs, are commonly found in different concentrations in many products. The most
commonly used alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and
tartaric acids. These mild acids serve to remove the outer layer of dull skin
and leave skin with a rejuvenated appearance.
Some of these acids are
derived from fruit sources, particularly citrus fruits, apples and grapes. Some
of the alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, are found in sugar cane.
Others, such as lactic acid, are found in milk.
Lactic acidis also a
naturally occurring substance in the skin and is produced by our muscles when we
work out. Lactic acid build up is in fact what gives muscles cramping when they
are over exerted. The most common acids used in skin care are lactic acid and
glycolic acid. Those people who are allergic to the more commonly found glycolic
acids should do very well with lactic acid products because they are a naturally
occurring substance in the skin.
All of the alpha hydroxy
acids serve to exfoliate the skin and leave your skin with a better appearance.
They should not be used too often at high concentrations because they can leave
the skin quite dry. At least one alpha hydroxy acid product should be part of
everyone?s regular skin care regimen, and are most commonly found in the toner
products in the skin care lines sold on our web site. If you are allergic to the
most commonly found alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, the lactic acid products
are available.
Collagenis a naturally
occurring substance that can be found in the skin. Collagen from animal sources
are used for fillers in the skin. Collagen injections have been used for many
years to treat scars and fine wrinkling. The biggest problem with collagen is
that it goes away after several months and needs to be repeated. It is also
rather expensive. Many other substances such as fibril and now one?s own
collagen can be cultured and injected into the skin. Skin tests need to be done
for patients undergoing treatment prior to their first round of injections since
many people can demonstrate allergies to collagen.
Dermabrasioncan take two
forms. Dermabrasion is an old technique which is used to treat both scars from
acne or trauma as well as fine wrinkling. Its use for treatment of fine
wrinkling has been supplanted by most of the lasers and topical chemical agents.
It still has a place for the treatment of scars, however, since it is an
excellent tool for rounding out depressed or elevated scars. Dermabrasion has
similar effects in increasing collagen and elastin as the carbon dioxide laser,
erbium laser and chemical peels. It is less controlled as the depth of
penetration is a function of how hard the surgeon pushes on the dermabrader, the
length of time the dermabrader is in any one place, and the quality of one?s
skin. Most doctors no longer use dermabrasion on a regular basis. The risks of
dermabrasion can be depigmentation, infection, scarring and persistent redness.
Exfoliator
These are any products
used to help speed the removal of the top or dead layer of skin cells. This more
rapidly allows new layers to come to the surface. They do little to remove
wrinkles, and are commonly used on the face. Examples of exfoliators are alpha
hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids. Other exfoliators are abrasive sponges,
or micro dermabrasion. Some facial masks also act as an exfoliator.
Moisturizers
Skin, especially on the
face, has oil glands which keep it moisturized. As one gets older, and in colder
air, the skin tends to get drier. The solution for dry skin is the use of
moisturizers. The type of moisturizer one uses is dependent upon one?s skin
type. The moisturizer used is also varied depending upon the season with
heavier, more effective moisturizers used during the winter. Lighter
moisturizers are typically lotions and contain a higher water content. They
evaporate more readily than the heavier moisturizers which contain more
petroleum based products and less water. Most moisturizers contain a balance of
petroleum based products with water, some additional ingredients such as
humectants help deliver moisture from below the skin to where it is needed. An
example of a commonly used humectant is glycerin.
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